New Zealand, Part 4

We have been back in Paris for two weeks now, and after our glorious time in the natural wonderland of New Zealand, I am starting to feel the crowds of people and the endless buildings of the city pressing in on me, making it hard to breathe. I yearn to see trees and hills and a distinct lack of people once more. Fortunately, we're travelling to Scotland next week to spend Christmas with Rory's family, so I can get my fill of hills and sheep and sparsely populated land.

I will wrap up our stories of New Zealand with my solo trip to Dunedin, which happened over three days while Rory was hard at work at the University of Canterbury. This trip was mildly significant in that it was the first time I'd ever been in a foreign country without any companions. I've travelled to many different countries--Thailand, Costa Rica, Italy, Belgium, Canada--but I'd never had to be self-reliant. Now I was all alone. I was going on an adventure!

So I eagerly anticipated my 6-hour bus ride to "The Edinburgh of the South", and in the spirit of exploration, I decided not to make any lodging reservations. With a backpack on my back, I walked from the Dunedin bus station to the center of town and found a youth hostel called Hogwartz. Admittedly, I had looked it up beforehand, checked the reviews, and found it on the map, but still! No reservation! I was living on the edge!

Hogwartz is a friendly, spacious, and sparkling hostel and I'd highly recommend it if you're ever in Dunedin. Although it's not particularly Harry Potter-esque, there were rooms labelled Gringotts, Dobby's Room, and 9 3/4. I stayed in a dorm with five other girls from France, Germany, and the US and enjoyed hearing their stories. The only downside to Hogwartz is that it's located on a very steep hill (much of Dunedin is unbearably hilly), so in the summer heat I was panting and sweating by the time I climbed back up to the hostel.

The world's steepest street is in Dunedin. Sorry, San Francisco.

Dunedin was settled primarily by Scottish settlers in the 1840s, hence the name, which comes from "Dùn Èideann", the Scottish Gaelic word for Edinburgh. In fact, Reverend Thomas Burns, the nephew of the famous Scottish poet, Robert Burns, was the spiritual leader of the new settlement and one of the founders of the university there. The settlers obviously wanted reminders of home because many of the streets have the same names as in Edinburgh, and the architectural style looks distinctly European.

The train station platform

Outside of the train station

Although there is a lot of nature to be explored around the Dunedin area and the Otago Peninsula (hiking, biking, wildlife tours, etc), it helps to have a car. Lacking one, I opted to stay closer to the city and take in two tours, a museum, and a concert while I was there. I first went to Larnach Castle & Gardens--New Zealand's only "castle". It is a gorgeously ornate and over-the-top estate situated on top of a hill overlooking the peninsula. It was built in 1871 by a fabulously wealthy man with a scandalous past, and it was interesting not only for the history of it but also just to enjoy the serene location.

New Zealand's only "castle"

Beautiful gardens surround the castle

The second tour I took was of the Olveston Historic Home, an upper class family's home that has been preserved just as it was in the early 20th century. It's a beautiful house with incredible art and furnishings, and it was fascinating to see how they lived back then. By the way, if you ever go to New Zealand, be sure to check out bookme.co.nz for really great discounts on a bunch of sightseeing activities. I got many tickets for things at half price.

The Otago Peninsula--viewed from the castle tower

The Otago Settlers Museum is also excellent--brand new and free! And finally, I enjoyed a performance of Stravinsky's Rite of Spring and the Walton Cello Concerto by the New Zealand Symphony. Definitely not free, but a good concert nonetheless.

Despite the 12 hours on a bus, I really enjoyed my time in Dunedin, exploring on my own, following my whims, making new friends. All in all it was an excellent adventure.