Showing posts with label spring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spring. Show all posts

Monday, April 17, 2017

Giverny, the home of Claude Monet

Spring is in full swing here and we are trying to make the most of the two and a half months we have left in France. Although we're eager for our Hawaiian adventure to begin, there is so much of France left to see and experience. Having a baby made us put some trips and activities on hold, but we're back in the game now. So yesterday we took a trip with two of our good friends to the tiny village of Giverny.


Giverny was the home of Claude Monet, the renowned late-nineteenth and early-twentieth-century Impressionist painter. The village of Giverny is in the southeast of the Normandy region of France, and Monet moved to a house there in 1883 at the age of forty-three. By this time, he was already well into developing his new Impressionist style, a disparaging term coined by an art critic in 1874 after an exhibition of his and other similar artists' work. Monet was attempting to artistically document the French landscape using a method of painting that conveyed his impressions and perceptions of the scenery, rather than striving for realism. Much of his progress in exploring this new style occurred at his home in Giverny.


Monet designed and created elaborate gardens on the land surrounding his house. As he sold more paintings and his wealth increased, he was also able to add a water lily pond, the one that would figure so prominently in his later works. His house and the gardens and pond are open to the public, so we spent the afternoon exploring where he created his masterpieces and enjoying the idyllic landscape. Unbeknownst to us when we planned our trip, mid-April is an ideal time to visit as the gardens are dazzlingly in bloom. The vibrant gardens showcased blossoming trees, leafy plants, vines snaking across trellises, and row after row of fragrant flowers, with particularly magnificent tulips of all shapes, sizes, and colors. The water lily pond as well was encircled by bamboo trees, flowering bushes, and a wide variety of other plants, though there were no actual water lilies at this time of year. It exuded peace and tranquility. It was not difficult to imagine Monet being constantly inspired to paint his surroundings.


After visiting the house and gardens, we strolled down the main street of Giverny, taking photos of the picturesque old homes, many of which peek out through a dense layer of bright purple wisteria. There are a couple of cafés and galleries, as well as the Museum of Impressionism, where we had lunch but didn't have time to otherwise visit. At the other end of the village is the twelfth-century church and the cemetery where Monet and some of his family members are buried. And that's about the extent of the town of Giverny. It's tiny and beautiful and even with plenty of tourists it still feels like a charming and refreshing getaway from the rush of Paris.


For any parents of young children among our readers who might consider a trip to Giverny, it should be noted that it works fairly well to bring a stroller/push chair/poussette, though it can't be taken into Monet's house as there are many stairs, and there are also stairs leading to the water lily pond, so it's good to have help carrying it up and down. We alternated the stroller with our baby carrier, and Maëlys seemed to appreciate the variety of views. Also, there are nice baby changing facilities and toilets for children next to the parking lot.


At the end of our meanderings around the village, we took a fifteen-minute shuttle bus back to the neighboring town of Vernon, where we caught the train back to Paris' Gare St. Lazare. The baby enjoyed watching the countryside fly past on the 45-minute trip and was nearly asleep by the time we got home that evening. For a small village in the middle of nowhere, we found it surprisingly easy to get to Giverny via public transportation. It's not a super cheap trip, as a return train ticket from Paris is about 25 per person and the shuttle costs 5 each way. Plus entrance to Monet's gardens and house is 9.50 per person. Still, a visit at the height of springtime is well worth the money and effort; it provides a marvellous escape from city life and allows you to feel the same tranquility and beauty that inspired the paintings of Monet.










Thursday, May 5, 2016

Le printemps est arrivé

Spring is finally here! The weather has turned around, and after a few driech weeks of grey rain, it's sunny and warm. It's about 20C (68F) today, and this weekend it's supposed to get up to 25C (77F). That's summer weather as far as I'm concerned!
A view of the Seine from the Pont de Bercy. In the distance you can see the Pont Charles-de-Gaulle, beyond that the Viaduc d'Austerlitz (with a métro train on it), and behind that you can just make out the piers (the parts that descend into the water). of the Pont d'Austerlitz. There's a Wikipedia article on Paris bridges if you want to know more.

Nice weather means that the Parisians want to go out to enjoy it. Things get pretty busy!
The crowds at the Jardin de Luxembourg. In the distance is the Église Saint-Sulpice.
Last Sunday was May Day, which is a national holiday in France, although it was a Sunday so people were off work anyway. Talia and I decided to take a trip to the Parc de Sceaux. This is a large garden in the suburb of Sceaux (pronounced "so"), formerly the grounds of a stately home (and historically a castle). It's about 30 minutes by commuter train from the centre of Paris. The park was busy, but nowhere near as busy as anywhere in Paris!
There's a huge "canal" through the centre of the park.
And some really beautiful water features.
Us! I'm struggling to keep my eyes open in the sun. See the beautifully-tended gardens behind us!
The old country mansion at the centre of the park has a museum inside, but being a Sunday (and a public holiday), it was of course closed. No matter, as it was absolutely delightful being outside and strolling around in the sun with a gentle breeze blowing. I hope you're enjoying the weather wherever you're reading this from.

Sunday, April 24, 2016

A trip to London


Last week we went to London to see Soraya, a dear Baha'i friend from Columbus. She was just on her way out of the UK after studying in Oxford for a term. It's easy to forget how close London and Paris are - it's just 2 and a half hours by train from city centre to city centre. London is closer to Paris than it is to Glasgow, and Paris is closer to London than it is to Marseille!

So, it wasn't difficult to hop up to England to see Soraya. We had planned to visit the New Southgate cemetery, which is where Shoghi Effendi (the leader of the Baha'i Faith from 1921 to 1957) is buried. It's a little far from central London so I think Soraya appreciated us being able to help her with directions and navigating the tube.

A view of the resting place of Shoghi Effendi. The tulips were blooming!
After paying our respects at the cemetery, we toured around central London a little. This included a trip to Oxford Road, where we looked in shops for baby things, and Soraya practically fainted at the cost of pushchairs. ("How does anyone afford to have children?") We also got to explore the famous department store Selfridge's, which we were disappointed to discover does not actually sell fridges.

Talia outside of Selfridge's
At the risk of making an obvious statement,London is different from Paris.

Yes, I've become that person who visits somewhere and then spends the whole time comparing it to wherever they live. ("Ugh, these baguettes aren't as good as in Paris.") This can be obnoxious if the place you're visiting is a little village or in a radically different culture, but in the case of London, it feels appropriate to compare it to Paris. (Both are global cities consistently ranked in the top 5 for participation in the worldwide economy.)

So, some observations that I made, in no particular order:
  • London is cleaner. Not just the streets, which have less litter and, uh, organic detritus, but even just the trains and buses seem to be less grimey.
  • The London underground (locally known as the tube, although I kept calling it the métro), especially the older lines, has small tunnels, claustrophobic trains, and feels much more like a series of old mineshafts. By comparison, most of the Paris underground feels like a set of train stations that just happen to be underground.
  • The architecture in London is less varied than that of Paris. I'm not sure to what extent this is due to London neighbourhoods being levelled during the blitz in WWII...
  • London also feels much much bigger than Paris, and the transport system is much more confusing, although these feelings might just be due to Paris being familiar to me and London unfamiliar.
  • Also, people speak English in London, and French in Paris, but I overheard a surprising amount of French in London. Apparently somewhere between 70,000 and 300,000 French people live in London, giving rise to the claim that London is France's sixth largest city.
I'm curious to know if others share my perspectives (even if you've only visited one of these places). Let me know in the comments! Part of the fun of travelling is seeing how things are different or the same from places you are used to. I'm not sure what I am "used to" now (having lived in three different countries), but comparing things can still bring fresh insights.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Party in the USA

Our last post was a month ago. How time flies when you're travelling internationally, moving to a new town, and entertaining guests! Today I'll just catch you up on some of our activities in the past month.

Amazing warm spring weather in Oregon
You may recall from my last post that I would soon be leaving France for a three-week stay in the US to visit my family in Oregon. This was my first time being back in America since we left eight months ago, and my first time seeing my family in nearly a year. Prior to this trip, I had finally been feeling more settled into Paris life and my conversational French was definitely improving. I was getting used to living in Europe. So I wasn't exactly desperate to leave France and the dismal political and social news coming out of America every day didn't help matters either.

So how was it going back home, you ask?

It was marvellous.

It may be trite to say so, but absence really does make the heart grow fonder. After so long in Paris, here are some of the things I appreciated most about America (and specifically Oregon):
My nephew's 2nd birthday party with a farm-themed cake
  • Strangers smiling at me and making eye contact. And occasionally even complimenting me!
  • Not having to prepare my sentences and figure out verb conjugations before speaking.
  • Knowing where to go in grocery stores and what I can find in them.
  • An abundance of gluten-free and dairy-free options at stores and restaurants. Vegan cheese! Vegan ice cream!
  • Finding inexpensive and comfortable maternity clothes.
  • Smoke-free air!
  • Seeing mountains and trees and nature everywhere I go.
  • Being able to see more than three stars at night.
  • Catching up with friends and family.
  • Hugs from people I love (rather than a semi-awkward kiss on both cheeks in the Parisian style).
  • Best of all: being a real part of my family again. Playing with my nieces and nephews. Getting parenting advice from my siblings. Watching Downton Abbey with my parents. Actually being there.

Homemade eclairs for the baby shower
Baby shower gifts!
On top of all that, I got to walk along the beach, attend my nephew's second birthday party, eat lots of gluten-free chocolate cake and eclairs, get a massage and a pedicure, and generally soak up all the fun and relaxation I possibly could in three short weeks. One of the sweetest things was having a baby shower put on by my mom and sisters-in-law and receiving blessings, wisdom, and gifts from dear friends. I brought home an extra giant suitcase filled with all sorts of treasures and necessities for our little one.


I'm filled with gratitude for the incredible time I had back home. It was refreshing and reinvigorating, and I came back to Paris with a full heart.


Cello duets and interpretive dancing with my nieces   
Meanwhile, in Paris, Rory was hard at work on getting us moved into a new apartment. In a stroke of exceptional timing, his mum and sister came to visit him during this time and were able to help haul our belongings to the new place. Thanks, Fiona and Zoë!

The apartment is just outside of Paris in a suburb called Montreuil (“mon-troy”), and is a small, albeit tastefully decorated one-bedroom furnished flat. It's more comfortable than our old place: ground floor—not fifth, quiet neighborhood, only two other tenants in the building, and it's 200 euros cheaper each month. Our landlady, who owns the building and lives upstairs, is so kind and helpful that she even bought us a memory foam mattress topper when she learned I was pregnant, just so I would dormir bien. We're still settling in and working on building our nest for when the baby arrives this summer.

The kitchen in our new apartment. Still small, but no neon walls!
Whew! I think we're caught up now on the Turnbull goings-on. Tomorrow we're catching an early train to London to spend the day with a lovely friend of ours from Columbus, so we'll have more posts coming your way soon.







In conclusion, here's another picture of my niece. It'll make you smile.


Sunday, March 13, 2016

Pregnancy and the Baha'i Month of Fasting

As many of you know, Rory and I are Baha'is, and in the Baha'i Faith there is a prescribed period of fasting where we abstain from food and drink. Fasting is common in many religions; some Christians fast or give up other material things during Lent, Muslims fast for 30 days during Ramadan, Jews fast on Yom Kippur. There are many other examples of fasting for religious reasons, but often a common desired outcome of all these periods of fasting is nearness to God and the nourishment of one's spiritual self. By practicing self-control and sublimating our physical desires, we find ourselves in stronger contact with our own noble souls and with the world beyond our little bubble of daily life.

"Happy is your condition for you have executed the divine command, and have arisen to fast in these blessed days. For this physical fasting is a symbol of the spiritual fasting, that is, abstaining from all carnal desires, becoming characterized with the attributes of the spiritual ones, attracted to the heavenly fragrances and enkindled with the fire of the love of God." - ‘Abdu’l-Bahá

The Baha'i month of fasting is a period of 19 days—the Baha'i calendar is composed of 19 months with 19 days in each month—and this special period happens during the final month of the Baha'i year. It takes place around March 2-March 20 every year, and Baha'is celebrate the end of the fast and the beginning of the new year on March 20 or 21 with Naw Ruz, the new year's celebration.

A sunny early spring day at the Parc Montsouris. 
Baha'is between the ages of 15 and 70 are exhorted to fast from all food and drink between sunrise and sunset for these 19 days. We wake up early in the morning, have breakfast before the sun comes up, and eat dinner after the sun sets. There are a few exemptions from fasting, however. Those who are traveling long distances, who are ill, or who are engaged in heavy labor do not need to fast, as well as women who are pregnant, nursing, or menstruating.

I have been fasting for the last 14 years of my life. The Fast is something I always greatly look forward to as winter draws to a close and spring begins to peek through the gloom. This year, however, I get to trade the privilege of fasting for the privilege of growing a human inside my body. Although I usually enjoy the Fast and find it challenging and spiritually uplifting, I am loving the experience of pregnancy and the increasing connection and love I feel for the banana-sized baby curled up in my tummy.

Even though I'm eating (like a horse!) during the Fast this year, I still wanted to use this special time for my own spiritual growth. For me, fasting at its most basic level restores self-discipline and routine to my life. Rising early despite tiredness, staying focused despite hunger; these are some of the more mundane aspects of fasting, but ones that promote balance and productivity.

The first daffodils I saw in Paris--in January.
So in lieu of forgoing food, I have been getting up before sunrise with Rory every morning for breakfast, partly for my own edification and partly to support him in his fasting. After we pray together, I make time to meditate, read the Baha'i Writings, and write some reflections in my journal. These are activities that I try to do all year long, but the self-discipline I manage during the Fast is what makes it work every day. I don't look at my phone or computer until after I have completed this morning routine. And I removed Facebook and games from my phone so I wouldn't be tempted to waste time on them. Two other elements of my fast this year have been regularly practicing the cello (which is harder to do when you have no impending orchestra concerts and no students to teach), and exercising and getting out of the apartment every day. These sound like simple tasks, but to an introverted pregnant lady with no regular job living in a foreign country, it's harder than you might think to motivate yourself out the door and up and down those five flights of stairs.

Happily, taking these simple steps during the Fast has increased my productivity, gratitude, and joy, brought me out of my technology-induced fog, and made me feel more connected not only to God but also to my husband, family, and friends. It's like I had been treading water for many months, barely able to keep my head above the surface, and suddenly I realized I could just get out of the pool.

Today is my 29th birthday, and normally, having a birthday during the Fast means having lots of positive energy to carry you through the day, but also often means having to turn down offers of birthday lunches or having to save a birthday cupcake for eight hours before I could eat it. The positives outweigh the negatives, so I never minded too much, but it was admittedly a very pleasant change this time around to have a birthday lunch for the first time in 14 years. One of the best birthday presents of all, though, is that tomorrow I fly to Oregon to visit my family and friends for the first time in ten months. I can't wait!

Despite the challenges of moving to a new country and navigating a foreign language, pregnancy, the health care system, French bureaucracy, and all the other things I have complained about, the Fast has helped me to realize just how blessed I really am. I have grown more this year than any other (and not just my belly!) and I'm so grateful for the opportunities I have been given.

My first birthday lunch in 14 years!
And the first gluten-free pizza I've found in Paris. http://biospherecafe.fr/en


Coming soon: Moving to a new apartment...on the ground floor!

Happy fasting to our dear Baha'i friends and happy spring to all!